It was one of those life choices that at the time cause considerable internal debate.The wrong choice may not be catastrophic but it certainly wouldnt be welcomed. I''d just left my b&b launching straight into a gut busting 35% climb on a narrow laneway heading out of Combe Martin. Bent over like the Hunchback of Notre Dame I had a close up and personal view of my mud splattered boots now seriously wondering with a gurgling stomach which boot would look the better decorated with my just consumed breakfast ! I'd better make a choice very quickly !
Well fuelled by my English breakfast (sausage, eggs, beans, mushrooms and a tomato or two) I said goodbye to my friendly hosts picking up the Coastal Path straight out the front door.
Somehow I'd resisted throwing up on the steep climb out of Combe which was now lit in bright sunshine with an evident fast moving sea mist threatening to spoil the days conditions.
Although reported as a heatwave in London (24c) the weather between Combe and Illfracombe soon deteriorated into a whiteout. Despite being told by a National Heritage employee enroute that this section was one of the most spectacular on the whole SWCP I spent the nest 6 odd kms walking cliffside with the only sensory clue to my whereabouts being the sound of crashing waves quite a way below me.
For the 3rd day in a row I met my mate from Lancashire who with his wife were doing day walks by leaving one of their 2 cars at one end of the walk thus negating the need for them to carry heavy packs ( make mental note.. next time bring 2 cars !)
Eventually the sea mist cleared enough for me to make out Hele Bay just short of Illfracombe where I descended to taking up prime position at a cafe on the foreshore and for the first time on walk actually have a civilised cuppa while watching owners dogs frollick along the grey sand beach.
With my b&b in Illfracombe not open until 2.30p.m I took the remaining 2 kms from Hele Bay slowly having to resort to reading in a nearby park (obviously not a common habit going by the strange looks I was getting) before finally checking in and then making my way gingerly to the Illfracombe Harbour and a nearby Wetherspoons for an early dinner.
Based on the amount of hobbling I was doing tomorrows planned 25 km segment to Braunton is seriously in doubt.
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